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A good underwater camera must be able to withstand cold, water and a bump. A popular and affordable camera that we sell a lot is the Sealife DC2000. This model has different variations and an extension set. I would like to tell you more about the different options, lenses and technical specifications. Do you still have questions after reading this blog? Then contact me. I would like to help you!
*The underwater pictures in this blog are taken by Willem Versluis with the SeaLife DC2000 camera.
The basic model of the Sealife DC2000 contains a compact camera, with a waterproof case around it. The camera is high end. For example, it is possible to shoot in RAW and there are options to set ISO values, shutter speed and aperture manually. The camera itself is watertight to a depth of 16 meters. Nevertheless, we advise to always keep the camera underwater in the case. With the underwater case, the camera is waterproof up to a depth of 60 meters. If the case still fills up, the camera remains closed and survives (in most cases). The closure of an underwater case is always by means of an O-ring. It works as a seal to ensure that no water enters.
The basic model is also available in combination with a flash and base plate to attach to the camera. The filter brings back the daylight underwater, as it were. The flash evenly distributes the light, so that you cannot see that you are artificially lighting up while taking the photo. A flash is often useful for deeper dives. Because the deeper you go, the less the colours are visible. For example, red is a colour that is soon out of sight. Yellow is the colour that is retained the longest.
Do you also want to film underwater? Then a lamp is a better option for you. This provides continuous light, which is necessary for filming. The lamp usually works at a wide angle, which spreads the light over a very large area. As a result, you will not see a ‘spot’ during filming, but a wide beam with lots of light. The lamp can be adjusted in different dimming positions.
If you take the most luxurious set, then you have a lamp and a flash next to the underwater camera. When taking photos you need the flash and you can use the light of the lamp to focus. The moment the photo is taken (and the strobe is on), the lamp goes off immediately. When the flash goes out, the lamp will turn on again. This process is automatic and ensures that you always have the optimal light to focus and take the picture. If you plan to use both the flash and the lamp, it is best to directly buy the luxury set. The lamp that you get with the other (basic) sets is a light that does not go out automatically when the flash comes on.
The basic sets can also be expanded with all kinds of accessories:
The Sealife DC2000 has programmed standard red filters that restore colours under water. Depending on the mode, it automatically sets the colour filters. Fluor photography is also possible. That is especially meant for diving in the tropics. This is only possible with orange glasses. The different modes:
Do you already know a bit about photography? Then you can also use the manual settings. Are you already in possession of an SLR camera? Of course you can use it with a casing, but these often do not have the red filters (which correct the colours).
The standard conversion lens is a macro lens (SL976), in order to photograph the small life in detail. You mount the macro lens in front of the case on the outside. You can easily click and click them. You can also opt for a wide-angle lens (SL975). This is especially useful when visibility is poor with turbid water. With a wide-angle lens you can photograph a large area from very close up. Both lenses can be used and used both underwater and above water.
Do you want to know more about underwater photography? Please, contact Marco!
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